SAN FRANCISCO, /PRNewswire/ -- It used to be that getting your vitamins for the day meant taking a multi-vitamin or eating fruits and vegetables rich in all the nutrients necessary for good health. Now, consumers are finding that skin care products -- such as cosmetics, moisturizers and hair care products -- are using vitamins to help them achieve healthier skin, too. In fact, the number of skin care products containing vitamins has more than tripled since 1991.

Speaking today at the American Academy of Dermatology's 2000 Annual Meeting in San Francisco, dermatologist Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, clinical associate professor of dermatology at Wake Forest University School of Medicine, Winston-Salem, N.C., discussed the increased use of vitamins in skin care products and how they can benefit the skin.

"As a start, consumers need to take a step back from the alphabet soup of vitamins found in skin care products and focus on what they want to accomplish -- whether it's improving facial wrinkles or reducing inflammation from acne,'' explained Dr. Draelos. "Then they need to understand what vitamins work for what skin conditions and choose skin care products accordingly.''

Vitamin A, and its precursor beta-carotene, are found in yellow, orange, and green vegetables, egg yolks, liver, butter, and fish oils. It is one of a family of natural and synthetic related derivatives collectively known as retinoids -- the primary prescription agent used for anti-aging purposes.

"The wide use of retinoids today in the reversal and prevention of photoaging was due to the research of a dermatologist who discovered that topical tretinoin improved wrinkling, brown spots, roughness and precancerous actinic keratoses,'' said Dr. Draelos.

Another vitamin that has become increasingly popular as an added ingredient in skin care products is vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid. Found in vegetables and citrus fruits, vitamin C acts as an antioxidant and is considered vital in wound healing because it aids in stabilizing collagen. When applied topically, vitamin C can reduce fine lines and wrinkles and may lessen the severity of sunburns.

Vitamin E, which is found naturally in vegetables, oils, nuts, seeds, whole wheat flour, and some meats and dairy products, is another antioxidant that may have anti-inflammatory effects on the skin. When applied topically, vitamin E has been thought to improve moisturization, softness and smoothness and also provide modest photoprotection.

"A great deal of research is being conducted to substantiate the claims of vitamin E,'' said Dr. Draelos. ``In the future, we're likely to see vitamin E preparations redesigned to enhance penetration into the skin. Certainly, it is an important vitamin for the skin and is included as an ingredient in many skin care products for its healing properties.''

One vitamin that is commonly used in hair care products for its ability to both hold and attract water is panthenol, the alcohol form of vitamin B5. When used topically in shampoos, hair sprays, and hair styling aids, panthenol increases the water content of the hair shaft, which leads to increased elasticity. Since it is essential for hair keratin and can actually penetrate the hair shaft through voids where the cuticle has been damaged, panthenol works well in products that need to be rinsed off. As a result, the hair has more manageability, better shine, less static electricity, and improved softness. This vitamin is now adapted for use on the skin.

One newer topical vitamin that shows promise as an over-the-counter ingredient to be explored in anti-aging products is niacinamide, a derivative of niacin -- one component of the B vitamin complex.

"Niacinamide is one of the vitamins that I think we'll hear more and more about in the coming years. Already, topical 4% niacinamide has been shown to be beneficial in the treatment of papular and pustular acne in a 4% gel, as well as the improvement of skin cancer and its anti-tumor characteristics,'' added Dr. Draelos.

Future research in the effects of vitamins on the skin will emphasize the importance of careful formulation and clinical testing as the key to developing useful topical vitamin preparations for the skin.

The American Academy of Dermatology, founded in 1938, is the largest, most influential, and most representative of all dermatologic associations. With a membership of over 13,000 dermatologists worldwide, the Academy is committed to: advancing the science and art of medicine and surgery related to the skin; advocating high standards in clinical practice, education, and research in dermatology; supporting and enhancing patient care; and promoting a lifetime of healthier skin, hair and nails. For more information, contact the AAD at 1-888-462-DERM or www.aad.org . SOURCE: American Academy of Dermatology